MR

MR-11 DIY kit

You should find enclosed these following parts Black alloy barrel Front Acetyl end cap Front acrylic plate 32mm o-ring 35mm o-ring 2x 4mm SS grubs screws Rear Acetyl switch cap with membrane switch & cable gland 1.3M twin core .5mm black cable 1x piece of thermally conductive insulating tape Selection of heat shrink Selection of hookup wire	Other available options Standard polycarb helmet mount with 3M Dual Lock Tilting alloy mount for helmet or handle bars (With bar mount) Bar mount Connector set by Molex	Opto/electronic options LED array. Triple or quad array or single Cree MCE. Optics to suit LEDs above Driver board
Recommended instruction order LED thermal tape mounting, trimming tape & drilling through holes for the hookup wire Inserting LED module into the alloy barrel. Wiring of LEDs, connecting the switch, & connecting the bFlex driver. Connecting the battery cable. Fitting o-ring, front acrylic plate, optic & cap. Inserting the tilting alloy adaptor or polycarb bracket. Fitting the connectors. Testing.	Tools required Soldering iron Hot air gun Long nose pliers Scissors Side cutters 3 & 2.5mm Allen keys	Caution Care must be taken when assembling this kit. LEDs are known for their long life but they are a susceptible to damage like any other opto-electronic device. Do not apply pressure, twist or burn the primary optic on the LED. Take care when placing the secondary optic. Do not force it on if the LED is not correctly aligned in the barrel. Better to remove & start again. Use some heat on the front cap if you intend to remove it for swapping out the secondary optic. Always use a LED driver. Do not subject LEDs to direct battery voltage. Take care with the control/driver board. Do not compress or pinch the hookup cable that may cause damage i.e. shorts. Make sure all solder joints are tidy with no solder burrs or sharp wire ends. Redo suspect joints. Take precautions with the driver board as you would with any other electronic board i.e. static protection.


Place your LED array onto the thermal tape. Make sure the placement is free of air bubbles & kinks. Press firmly down to ensure good bonding. Do not press on the LED primary optic. Only press on the backing board. If you have a quad board you may have to drill a 3mm hole in the middle. Watch for the small tracks linking the LEDs. Do not damage them.
Cut around the array with scissors. Make the edges clean of any burrs. This will ensure that the array fits snuggly into the housing.
Use a drill or similar to make the holes for the hookup wire before you peel of the tape. This will minimise picking up of any foreign material.
Check the alloy barrel to make sure that the surface is clean. Do not allow dust or dirt the adhere to the thermal tape. You should practice inserting this LED module into the housing before removing the backing of the thermal tape. Peel off the backing to expose the tape. Place the optic into position making sure you do not allow the array to drop off.
You can place the LED module into the barrel but it must fit correctly in the centre.
Alternatively, you can use a pair of long nose pliers to drop the module gently in to the centre. Do not yet press firmly in place in case it needs removed due to misplacement.
If you need to remove the LED module, you can use a pencil or similar & push out from the rear of the barrel. This is quite easy to do if you have not pressed the array hard in. The adhesive is relatively forgiving.
If the LED module is seated correctly you can place the optic on to test the fit. If you are happy with this fit, then press firmly down on the LED board. Do not press on the LED primary optic.
Place & solder the red & black hookup wire, inserting from the front. Make sure you pre-tin the wire before you fold over & solder. Be careful not to touch the LED primary optics with your soldering iron. If using the quad board make the hookup wire connections as shown on the far right.
Quad LED placement only. Apply heat shrink onto the quad board wires as shown. Route the two wires through the hole & out the rear of the barrel. Keep this tidy to ensure the optic fits correctly.
Place the included heat shrink over the hookup wires by inserting from the rear of the barrel. This is to minimise any chaffing of the wire inside the barrel. Apply heat to shrink.
Connect the switch making a tidy join & cover with provided small heat shrink. Keep the hookup wire lengths around 30-40mm long. Cover (if required) the driver board you have selected with the large heat shrink. You may have to mount or leave uncovered the driver board. bFlex boards are to be covered as these boards do not require any thermal bonding to the alloy barrel.
Connect the battery cable to the driver. The brown wire should be used as positive +. The blue wire should be used as negative -. Cover the tidy joins with provided heat shrink. Make the wire lengths short around 30-35mm. Pull back into the cable gland the tidy join you made so most of the join is actually inside the plastic gland. The less cable or wire in the rear housing the better. But leave enough outer sheath of black cable for the gland to tighten up
Now you need to route the wires in a tidy fashion within the rear housing. Place the driver board (Based on a bFlex but your board may differ) with the coil to the top which will allow plenty of room for the cable gland to intrude at the bottom. Route the switch wires around the top. Check your work carefully, you do not want a short here! Make sure the switch flexible track is not kinked or ripped. Tighten with your fingers the outer cable locking gland.
Align the switch module with the Kiwi to the top. Twist around before pressing the cap on tight. If you need to remove the switch cap some heat will help along with gentle twisting action & prise apart with a small screwdriver.
Assemble the optic & cap. You can use the 32mm o-ring to compress the optic or you could use a little amount of sealant to hold the optic in place. If you use sealant, do not apply too much otherwise it will be hard to remove the optic in the future. Apply what may hold atop a match head. Allow to dry. Forcing off the secondary optic could damage the LED primary optic. Nightlightning uses an o-ring. The optic will be recessed into the barrel. If you do not use the o-ring or sealant, the optic may move forward in use.
Place the 35mm o-ring into the Acetyl end cap which will locate into the internal groove. Insert the acrylic plate after removing the plastic protective cover.
Carefully place the end cap on. You can heat this cap to facilitate the fitting. Align the two SS grub screws with the bottom of the light. Press up tight 7 nip up the grub screws. You can make them bite into the alloy barrel & then back of a little. It may prove fiddly to maintain the 32mm inner o-ring placement. Take your time.

Helmet mount option Place the tilting helmet adaptor into the second from rear gap between the alloy fins. Press in tightly. Use a piece of plastic if it is tight & knock into place. Or if using the standard polycarb bracket, place this into the most rear gap. Press in firmly. You can use a small screwdriver to slightly bend the fin to clamp the mount.
Standard polycarb mount. Bar mount far right.

Connectors If using the Molex connector set make sure you feed on the pieces of shrink before you fit off the pins & certainly before you fit the pins into the white plastic receptacle. Brown wire = + Blue wire = - Brown wire goes into receptacle #1 or top notch location.
Apply the outer two pieces of heat shrink to make a strong & sturdy finish. Female pins are for the light & charger. Male pins are for the battery. Pictures show the female light connector.